Mention mushrooms and the responses are as varied as the number of fungi. Some become whimsical about foraging through the forests of Big Sur, searching for tasty morsels, while others turn up their noses at the mere thought of the earth-laden-flavored tree-huggers. Still others are eager to discuss the current usage of psilocybin, or more precisely, the healing aspects of micro-dosing that do not entail visions of Mad Hatters and White Rabbits from an “Alice in Wonderland” magic trip.
Here in Carmel, there is a plethora of experts, experiences and tastings to enhance a knowledge, and certainly, an appreciation, for fungal pickings. An understanding of mycelium and the importance of fungus is evident in our restaurant scene, from the foragers to the feast preparers.
Local restaurants show support for mushroom suppliers in a variety of ways. With climate conditions enabling ancient undergrowth of subterraneal worlds that resemble “Fantasia,” the diversity of the mushrooms available as a seasonal source sparks creativity in chefs to make memorable mushroom moments.
“I love to serve these types of dishes. I am an entertainer, and this makes my work easy,” says J.C. Contreras, a longtime server and former restaurant owner in Monterey County, who recently joined Wild Fish in Pacific Grove. This particular evening, the restaurant is hosting a special dinner as part of the Big Sur Foragers Festival, benefiting the Big Sur Health Center. Wild Fish owners Kelvin and Liz Jacobs put an emphasis on these events. “It’s a mission to do special dinners and to give back,” Kelvin says. “And we will always support our foragers.”
The mushroom risotto is perfectly prepared, creamy, yet al dente, topped with a huge ladle of a combination of freshly foraged fungi. Executive Chef Elsah Payne radiates about the fresh ingredients. “We just moved our family here from Wisconsin and it is a dream come true!” She gives credit to her chef de cuisine husband, Roger, for the cloud-like risotto. A former food stylist for national television, film and print, Payne specializes in the plating too. But she shines when talking about her future mission in infusing guests’ palates with wildness. “The farm-to-table and sea-to-table scene here is so dynamic. It is amazing, the opportunities to learn and grow from the types of people in the industry here. My favorite right now is Todd Spanier.”
Todd Spanier, owner/founder/mushroom expert extraordinaire, recalls vividly the day he handpicked those delights for the fundraiser dinner. “I pulled all of the ingredients the day before and drove them straight down to the restaurant. Did you like the tiny flowers in the salad? There were lemon, radish and mustard flowers. And the mushrooms are the winter’s triumphant trilogy.” What trio makes him practically poetic about the world’s oldest living organism? It’s the yellow foot chanterelle, hedgehog chanterelle, and the black trumpet, which he calls “The star of the show with its deep, earthy, umami flavor.” The wild hedgehog has teeth underneath its cap and, when roasted, keeps its shape for a gorgeous presentation, as evidenced by the risotto dish.
Spanier is a lifelong forest forager, having learned from his grandfather, Ed Marcellini, an experienced mycophile who regularly took him deep into the Monterey Peninsula preserves hunting for wild edible mushrooms. Spanier’s business name, The King of Mushrooms, came directly from those fungal scouting excursions that Marcellini took with his grandchildren. The discovery of an especially interesting, large or copious amount led to the crowning of a king or queen for that afternoon.
That initial introduction led to a love of science and, later, one for business. Spanier sells his beauties online, does personal pickings, and provides an understanding of the fungi’s ecosystem. “We are in a huge biodiversity with our forests here, and the vast tree system provides the support for the mushrooms. In return, the mushrooms provide the support back to the trees in a symbiotic relationship.”
It is a beautiful circle, one that has been going on since time eternal with delicious results.
Wild Fish is located at 545 Lighthouse Avenue in Pacific Gove. For more information, visit www.wild-fish.com or call 831/373-8523.
Big Sur Foragers Festival is held annually. For more information, visit www.bigsurforagersfestival.org.
Big Sur Health Center is located at 46896 CA-1 in Big Sur. For more information call 831/667-2580 or visit www.bigsurhealthcenter.org.
The King of Mushrooms is online with a retail/wholesale shop. For more information call 650/757-6910 or visit www.kingofmushrooms.com.